Method of making a foundation garment



April 13, D. HART METHOD OF MAKING A FOUNDATION GARMENT Filed March 18, 1963 I 6 Sheets-Sheet; 1

April. 13, 1965 D. HART 3,177,867

METHOD OF MAKING A FOUNDATION GARMENT Filed March 18, 1963 6 Sheets-Sheet 2 April 13, 1965 D. HART 3,177,867

METHOD OF MAKING A FOUNDATION GARMENT Filed March 18, 1963 6 Sheets-Sheet 3 April 13, 1965 D. HART 3,177,867

METHOD OF MAKING A FOUNDATION GARMENT Filed March 18, 19s: 6 Sheets-Sheet 4 April 13, 1965 D. HART 7 METHOD OF MAKING A FOUNDATION GARMENT Filed March 18, 1965 6 Sheets-Sheet 5 Fig 4a,.

April 13, 1965 D. HART 3,177,867

METHOD OF MAKING A FOUNDATION GARMENT FilGd March 18, 1963 6 Sheets-Sheet 6 United States Patent M 3,177,867 WTHOD 0F MAKING A FOUNDATION GARh IENT Diane Hart, London, England, assignor to Hearts Delight Limited Filed Mar. 18, N63, Ser. No. 265,685 Claims priority, application Great Britain, Mar. 23, 1962, 11,253/ 62 3 Claims. (Cl. 128-686) This invention relates to foundation garments for women. The term foundation garments is intended to comprehend skin fitting garments which have the effect, to some extent, of moulding the female figure. It will be understood, accordingly, that the term includes, inter alia, corselets, elastic belts, roll-ons, deep brassieres and swimwear.

It is a common practice for manufacturers of foundation garments as distinct from makers of individually tailored foundation garments to supply to the public such garments, as for example corselets, on the basis of being supplied with certain circumferential measurements of the customers. Thus, for example, a prospective wearer of a corselet may supply the manufacturer with her bust, waist and hip measurements and from this information the manufacturer supplies the corselet best suited to the wearer. Garments manufactured and supplied in this manner in general are not very satisfactory because the information supplied is an inadequate basis on which to make the garment. It will be appreciated that women of very different heights may possess the same bust, hip and waist measurements and, accordingly, a garment made from these measurements will not properly fit all the different women possessed of the measurements. It is, accordingly, one object of the present invention to provide an improved method of making a foundation garment from measurements supplied by the wearer.

A method of making a foundation garment for a woman, according to the present invention, comprises obtaining information from the prospective wearer as to circumferential measurements and further measurements taken in a longitudinal direction from the waist level of the prospective wearer, providing sections for the garment, each section being provided in a plurality of sizes and each section having an edge part extending circumferentially of and at the waist level of the prospective wearer, selecting each section in a desired size thereof by utilizing at least one circumferential and at least one longitudinal measurement of the prospective wearer to determine said desired size of each section, and forming the selected sections of desired size into a garment.

Those skilled in the art will appreciate that the term sections as hereinbefore used is meant to extend to parts of the foundation garment which fit closely to the trunk of the wearer and obviously is not intended to embrace, for example, such parts of the garment as the bust cups the shape and size of which are largely determined by considerations of the style of the finished garment.

The invention will now be described, by way of example, with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which:

FIGURE 1 is a diagrammatic view illustrating the measurements of the female figure which it is required to take in order to carry out the method of the present invention;

3,177,857 Patented Apr. 13, 1965 FIGURES 2a to e each illustrate block pattern shapes relevant to a particular garment bust size, for example size 32, for a section of a lower part of a garment made according to this invention;

FIGURES 3a to 01 each illustrate block pattern shapes relevant to the same garment bust size for which the block pattern shapes of FIGURES 2a to e are appropriate, for a section of an upper part of a garment made according to this invention; and

FIGURES 4a and I) each illustrate block pattern shapes of a bust cup section of a garment made from the block patterns illustrated in FIGURES 2a to e and 3a to d.

Referring to the drawings, the method of making a foundation garment for a woman according to this invention, requires, first, that seven measurements numbered l to 7 of the female figure be taken. Of these measurements, those designated 1 to 5 are respectively the bust, the underbust, the waist, the hip and the underseat or thigh measurements, whilst the measurements designated 6 and 7 are respectively longitudinal measurem nts taken from the waist to the underbust and from the waist to the thigh.

The seven measurements referred to above determine, as hereinafter described, the shape of the block pattern required for each section of the garment.

The garment is formed from twelve sections, excluding the two sections of each bust cup block patterns for which are illustrated in FIGURES 4a and 4b. Each of these twelve sections has an edge part which extends along the waist of the wearer and, as will be apparent hereinafter, it follows that the shape of each of these twelve sections is determined by one measurement taken lengthwise of the wearer and at least one measurement taken circumferentially of the wearer.

The block pattern shapes from which the twelve sections of the garment are eventually formed are illustrated in FIGURES 2a to e and FIGURES 3a to d. FIGURES 2a to e each represent block pattern shapes for a section of the garment which extends below the waist. Each of these block pattern shapes has an upper edge 10 which corresponds with the waist level of the garment. Also, each block pattern shape is available in four lengths indicated by the distances between upper edge 10 and lower edges 11, 12, 13 and 14 (or, in the case of the pattern in FIGURE 21), alternatively, lower edges 11', 12', 13' and 14').

FIGURE 2a shows the block pattern shapes for the central lower front panel, this panel being symmetrical about the centre line 2% The block pattern shapes of this panel of the garment, as can be seen from inspection of FIGURE 2a, are available in a single width which is the distancebetween centre line 2% and a longitudinal edge 21. There are thus four block pattern shapes of the central lower front panel from which to choose for each basic bust size and the choice depends upon the waist to thigh measurement, i.e. measurement 7 of the wearer. The basic bust size, as is well known in the art, is determined by the underbust measurement, that is to say, measurement 2. It follows, therefore, that the size of each of the four block pattern shapes for the central lower front panel is determined by one longitudinal measurement, namely, measurement 6 and one circumferential measurement, namely, measurement 2.

FIGURE 2b illustrates the block pattern shapes available in each bust size which each extend from one of the longitudinal edges 21 of the central lower front 'in the case of persons of narrow hip size.

tudinal edges 26 and 27, 27 and 28, or 28 and 23.

panel to a longitudinal side seam of the garment. The block pattern shapes for these sections are available in widths measured between longitudinal edge 22 and any of longitudinal edges 23, 24 or 25 as appropriate. The width of this block pattern measured between the longitudinal edges 22 and 23 is appropriate to pattern lengths measured from the upper edge 10 to the lower edges 11', 12', 13" and 14. Similarly, the pattern width between longitudinal edges 22 and 24 is appropriate to pattern lengths measured from edge 10 to edges 12, 13 and 14 whilst the pattern width measured between edges 22 and 25 is appropriate to the pattern length measured between edges 10 and 11. It will be noted, therefore, that a width measurement taken between the longitudinal edges 22 and 25 provides one pattern shape whilst a width measurement taken between longitudinal edges 22 and 24 provides three pattern shapes and the width measurement taken between longitudinal edges 22 and 23 provides four pattern shapes. In total, therefore, for this particular panel of the garment, there are eight possible shapes available. The actual shape of the pattern selected depends upon the waist to thigh measurement of the wearer, i.e. measurement 6 and also upon the hip measurement, i.e. measurement 4. Thus, in the case of a person of basic bust size 32 (determined by the underbust'measurement for that person) and a hip measurement of 32 inches, the appropriate width of the pattern 'of FIGURE 2b would be between the longitudinal edges 22 and 23 and the length of the pattern would depend upon measurement 6 of the person. Alternatively, if the hip measurement of the person were 34 inches or 36 inches, then, depending upon measurement 6 of the person, the width of the pattern would be taken between longitudinal edges 22 and 24 or 22 and 25.

FIGURE 20 and FIGURE 2d each illustrates block pattern shapes for sections of the garment extending between a side seam thereof and an upright edge of a central rear panel the block pattern shapes for which are illustrated in FIGURE 2e. The patterns shown in FIG- URE 2c are utilised in the case of persons of medium hip size whilst those shown in FIGURE 2d are utilised Whether a particular person has a medium or a narrow hip depends, as is well known in the art, upon the relationship of the hip to the underseat measurement, i.e. the relationship of measurements 4 and 5.

The medium hip patternsof FIGURE 20 are available in four lengths and three widths the lengths being measured from top edge 10 to one of bottom edges 11, 12, 13 or 14 whilst the widths are measured between longi- In all the block pattern shapes of FIGURE 2c provide twelve possible pattern shapes for each basic bust size.

Similarly, the narrow hip patterns of FIGURE 2d provide twelve possible pattern shapes for each basic bust size inasmuch as the patterns are available in four lengths measured from top edge 10 to one of the bottom edges 11, 12, 13 and 14 and three widths taken between longitudinal edges 26' and 27, 27' and 28', or 28' and 29'.

The particular block pattern shape selected in any particular case from those illustrated in FIGURES 2c and 2d is determined first from measurement 2,'the underbust measurement which decides the basic bust size of the pattern. The relationship between measurements 4 and then indicates whether the person involved requires one of the medium or narrow hip patterns, that is to say one of the patterns of FIGURE 2c 0r FIGURE 2d. Finally, measurements 4 and 6 decide the precise pattern. Thus, for example, in the case of a 32 bust size with narrow hip and a measurement 4 of 32 inches, the choice would be one of the four patterns shown in FIGURE 2d bounded by edges 26, 27', and 11, 12, 13 or 14. Measurement 7 would then decide the final choice amongst these four pattern shapes. With a measurement 4 of 34 inches, the choice would be one of the four pattern shapes bounded by lines 27', 28', 10 and 11, 12, 13 or 14 whilst with a measurement 4 of 36 inches, the choice would be one of the four pattern shapes bounded by lines 28', 29', 10 and 11, 12, 13 or 14. In the cases where measurement 4 was 34 or 36 inches, the final choice amongst the four pattern shapes is decided by measurement 7.

FIGURE 26 illustrates the block pattern shapes for the central lower rear panel, this panel being symmetrical about center line 30. The block pattern shapes of this panel are available in two widths which are respectively measured from center line 30 to longitudinal edge 31 and from center line 30 to longitudinal edge 32. Since these block pattern shapes are available for each basic bust size in four lengths and two widths, there are eight possible choices of pattern shape. The actual choice will depend first on measurement 2, the underbust measurement which determines the basic bustsize, e.g. size 32. Next, measurement 4 will determine the choice of width, e.g. in the case of a 32 bust size, if measurement 4 is 36 inches the width of the pattern shape will be taken between the longitudinal edge 32 thereof and center line 30 whereas if measurement 4 is 32 or 34 inches the width of the pattern is taken between the longitudinal edge 31 thereof and center line '30. Finally, after the block pattern width is chosen the precise block pattern is selected from a knowledge of measurement 6.

Referring now to FIGURES 3a to d which illustrate, for a particular basic bust size, block pattern shapes for upper sections of the garment, it will be observed that each block pattern has an edge part 40 or 41 depending on the length of the pattern which extends along the waist level. For each length the block pattern shapes for each section are available in three widths. Thus, in the case of the block pattern shape for the central front upper panel of the garment which is illustrated in FIG- URE 3a and is symmetrical about center line 42, where the block pattern terminates at edge 40 three widths are available, namely, a small width pattern which is bounded by edges 40, 43, 45 and center line 42, a medium width pattern which is bounded by edges 40, 46, 47, 48 and center line 42 and a large width pattern which is bounded by edges 40, 49, 50 (most of which coincides with edge 47), 51 and center line 42. Similarly, it can be seen that where the length of the block pattern terminates at edge 41 three further block pattern shapes, namely small, medium, and large width pattern shapes are available.

In the case of the block pattern shapes illustrated in FIGURE 3b, which are the block pattern shapes for each of two similar panels which extend between a longitudinal side seam of the garment and a longitudinal edge of the central front upper panel, there are available for each of the lengths terminating at edges 40 and 41, three block pattern widths, namely, a small, a medium and a large block pattern width. Thus, for example,. for a block pattern length terminating at edge 40, the small Width pattern is bounded by edges 40, 52, 53, 54 and 55, the medium width pattern by edges 40, 52, 56, 54 and 57, and the large width'pattern by edges 40, 52, 58, 54 and 59. The boundaries of the three block patterns available for a pattern length terminating at edge 41 can be ascertained by inspection of FIGURE 3b.

For the block pattern shapes illustrated in FIGURE 30 which are employed for each'of two similar panels of the garment which extend each between a longitudinal side seam of the garment and a longitudinal edge of a rear central upper panel of the garment (the block pattern shapes for which are illustrated in FIGURE 3d), three pattern widths namely, small, medium and large widths are available for each of the block pattern lengths terminating at edges 40 and 41. Thus, for example, where the block pattern length terminates at edge 40, the corresponding small width block pattern is bounded by edges 40, 60, 61 and 62, the medium width block pattern by edges 40, 63, 64 and 62 and the large width block pattern by edges 40, 65, 66 and 62. The boundaries of the three block patterns corresponding to a block pattern length terminating at edge 41 can be ascertained by inspection of FIGURE 3c.

In the case of the block pattern shapes illustrated in FIGURE 3d which are symmetrical about center line 743 and which are employed for the central upper rear panel of a garment of a particular basic bust size, three pattern widths, namely, small, medium and large widths are available for each pattern length terminating at edges 49 or 41. For example, in the case where the pattern length terminates at edge 49, the small width block pattern available is bounded by edges 46), 71, 72 and center line '79, the medium width by edges 46, 73, 74 and center line 70 and the large width by edges 46, 75, 76 and center line 70. The boundaries of the three block patterns available in pattern lengths terminating at edge 4-1 can readily be ascertained by inspection of FIGURE 34!.

FIGURES 4a and b illustrate the shape of the block patterns appropriate to lower and upper bust cup sections of a garment of a particular basic bust size. It will be seen that edges 861: and 30b define the block pattern boundaries respectively of upper and lower bust cup sections of a small bust cup, edges 81a and 81b define the block pattern boundaries respectively of upper and lower bust cup sections of a medium bust cup whilst edges 82a and 32b define the block pattern boundaries respectively of upper and lower bust cup sections of a large bust cup.

The manner in which the block patterns for the upper sections and bust cups of a garment are selected can now be described. First, the underbust measurement, i.e. measurement 2 is used to determine the basic bust size of the garment. Next, the actual bust measurement decides whether the garment requires a small, medium or large bust cup. Measurement 6 is then used to determine whether the upper sections of the garment, other than the bust cup sections, are to be formed from block patterns the lower edges of which terminate at edges 40 or 41. When this has been donethe choice of the final block pattern for each upper section'of the garment has been reduced to three. The final choice is made as follows: If the other measurements dictate that the garment requires a small cup, the small width block patterns, of appropriate length, are chosen for the block pattern shapes illustratedin FIGURES 3a and 3b whilst the large width block patterns, of appropriate length, are chosen from the block pattern shapes illustrated inFIGURES Y 30 and 3d. If the other measurements, indicate that a It will be understood that in practice the garment manufacturer holds for each basic bust size stocks of garment section cut from each of the block patterns available for each section. The manufacturer is then supplied with a set of measurements 1 to 7 for a particular individual from which he is able-to select the correct cut sections of a foundation garment which will accurately fit that individual. The sections are then made up in known manner into a garment. The garment suitably includes a zip fastener, preferably, in a side seam thereof.

As a specific illustration of the operation of the method let it be assumed that the manufacturer has received a set of measurements 1 to 7 respectively of 33, 27, 24, 32, 31, 5 and 13 inches. Since measurement 2 is 27 inches this indicates to the manufacturer that the basic bus t size of the garment is size 32. Measurement 1 of 33 inches from the knowledge of the basic bust size, in this instance size 32 and, next, from measurement 7 of 13 inches which indicates a block pattern length measured between edges 19 and 13. The relationship of measurement 5, i.e. 31 inches to measurement 4, i.e. 32 inches tells the manufacturer that medium rather than narrow hip block patterns are required. This means that the patterns of FIGURE 2c rather than 2d are appropriate. The pattern illustrated in FIGURE 20 required for the individual under consideration is then finally determined from hip measurement 4 which tells the manufacturer that the desired pattern is that bounded by edges 26, 27, 10 and 13. From hip measurement 4 of 32 inches the manufacturer further knows that the particular block pattern required from those depicted in FIGURE 2e is that bounded by edges 31, 1t), 11 and center line 30 whilst the particular block pattern required from those shown in FIGURE 2b is that bounded by edges 22, 23, 10 and 13. A knowledge of the basic bust size, in this case 32, and measurement 7 of 13 inches is sufiicient-to identify the block pattern shape required from those illustrated in FIGURE 2a as that bounded by edges 10, 21, 13 and center line 20. 1

It will be noted that the waist measurement 3 of 24 inches has not been utilised and it is pointed out that this measurement is used to determine the basic bust size in those cases Where the underbust measurement indicates thatthe individual is between sizes.

To those skilled in the art it will be readily apparent as to how the technique described may be utilised for making garments other than corselets, for example, girdles and deep brassieres. Also, it will be apparent that in general the greater the number of sections into which the garment is divided, the greater the accuracy of fit obtainable. When, apart from bust cup sections, twelve garment sections are utilised in the manner described it is found that a minimum number of one hundred and forty-four garments is available to fit persons of a particular basic bust size and that this range caters for the pective wearer as to circumferential measurements and further measurements taken in a longitudinal direction from the waist level of the prospective wearer, providing sections for the garment, each section being provided in a plurality of sizes and each section having edge parts respectively extending circumferentially of and at the waist level of the prospective wearer and longitudinally of the prospective wearer, selecting each section in a desired size thereof by utilizing at least one circumferential and at least one longitudinal measurement of the prospective wearer to determine said desired size of each section, and forming the selected sections of desired size into a garment.

2. The method claimed in claim 1 in which five circumferential measurements, namely, the bust, the underbust, the waist, the hip and the thigh measurements and 7 7 which border on the waist of the wearer and the sizeof the bust cups required by the wearer. r

3; The method claimed in claim 2, in which the five circumferential measurements and the two longitudinal measurements are utilized to determine the shapes and sizes of six garment sections forming that portion of the garment below the Waist of the wearer and six garment sections forming that portion of the garment, other than the bust cups, above the waist of the wearer.

- References Cited by the Examiner UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,374,654 5/45 Cooke 3315 12,768,382 10/56 Park 2--243 ADELE M. EAGER, Primary Examiner.

LOUIS R. PRINCE, Examiner. 

1. A METHOD OF MAKING A FOUNDATION GARMENT FOR A WOMAN, COMPRISING OBTAINING INFORMATION FROM THE PROSPECTIVE WEARER AS TO CIRCUMFERENTIAL MEASUREMENTS AND FURTHER MEASUREMENTS TAKEN IN A LONGITUDINAL DIRECTION FROM THE WAIST LEVEL OF THE PROSPECTIVE WEARER, PROVIDING SECTIONS FOR THE GARMENT, EACH SECTION BEING PROVIDED IN A PLURALITY OF SIZES AND EACH SECTION HAVING EDGE PARTS RESPECTIVELY EXTENDING CIRCUMFERENTIALLY OF AND AT THE WAIST LEVEL OF THE PROSPECTIVE WEARER AND LONGITUDINALLY OF THE PROSPECTIVE WEARER, SELECTING EACH SECTION IN A DESIRED SIZE THEREOF BY UTILIZING AT LEAST ONE CIRCUMFERENTIAL AND AT LEAST ONE LONGITUDINAL MEASUREMENT OF THE PROSPECTIVE WEARER TO DETERMINE SAID DESIRED SIZE OF EACH SECTION, AND FORMING THE SELECTED SECTIONS OF DESIRED SIZE INTO A GARMENT. 